CARF-Models BAE Hawk 1:375
Build Guide

Disclaimer

Use this guide at your own risk. This guide is not supported or approved by the manufacturer. Remote control jets are extremely dangerous and can kill if not flown/built right. I'm providing this guide as my own, non-professional opinion. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Introduction

Unboxing video: https://www.facebook.com/fishelad/videos/5451750594892224/

Elevator

Servos tray

Cut and assemble the servos tray with CA, and then use resin and fiber glass to strengthen all seams.
Use standard size servos (20KG plus) and a 28mm servo arm. I'm using MKS HBL599.

(An interesting option for saving weight would be to use the 599SL version. Saving about 60g in the far back of the plane)

Side covers

Turbine and pipe

Turbine mount

CA the two 3mm mounts together.
The bottom one should be rounded in the corners for a better fit to the carbon bypass.
The back of the turbine should be 40-45 mm from the back of the carbon bypass.
Align the turbine in place. I needed to add a 3rd layer of 3mm plywood to get my turbine centered vertically and for adding more surface for the screws and blind nuts.
Only after fixing the turbine to the plywood braces, glue them to the carbon bypass with thickened epoxy.

Cut the carbon bypass

The cut should start about 8mm from the first mounting (145mm from the opening) and go towards the bottom to about 45mm from the opening line.

Thrust tube to bypass connection

I like to use a hole punch kit to create the holes in the thrust tubes (4 holes around the bell), then mounting the tube on the bell and drilling the carbon.

Use rivets or screws to secure it.

Tube support

I added 6 scrap thin plywood just to hold the tube support in place (attached to the last former, just under the elevators servos). I then used thickened epoxy to glue it.

NOTE: to fit the tube, you need to turn it 180 degrees upside down, insert all the way, and then turn it right side up.

Rudder

Use the thin ball link in the package. Screw it on the 3mm threaded rod.

Take out the piano wire to detach the rudder.

Connect the pushrod to the horn and test fit.

Expand the opening to allow full deflection of the rudder with the pushrod attached.

Make sure not to sand the carbon. You should carve only the foam former.

Main Gears

Fitting the Gear

You must purchase the Electron Manual Controller in order to fit the gears/doors. It would be impossible to do it without it.

I used two 3mm plus one 1mm plywood spacers to create a 7mm spacer.

I then test fitted the gear, drilled 2mm pilot holes and used the wood screws to attach the gear.

Align the wheels.

After making sure everything is in place, I used thickened epoxy to glue the spaces in place.

Fuselage Main Gear Door

Standard size servo. (I'm using MKS HV1220)
33mm servo arm

Pushrod should be 58mm

Make sure this is the servo arm position when the door is locked, to create geometrical lock.
The Electron GS200 gear controller sends power to the door servos every 15 or 45 seconds by default. Change it to constant power.

Gear Covers

Cover the set screw holes with tape to avoid dripping epoxy into those.

Add some balsa/airex/roahcell on the sides for better bonding surface

Use thickened epoxy to glue.

After gluing, you'll need to drill holes in the covers to allow access to the set screws.

Use thickened epoxy to cover the seams. Later on you can bondo and paint it.

NOTE! There's a left/right for the gear covers.... I was wrong, and did it the opposite side.

Main Gear Door

Cut the main door to size (allowing about 2mm space from the follow-me door)
I'd recommend to make the gaps about 1mm. Not so percise as shown in the picture. Incase of a hard landing, the strut pin might bend a bit and the gear can get stuck in the next flight.

Sand the part of the door that touches the gear covers to allow flush height of the door.

Roughen the surface of the gear door covers in the glue point of the door (I even added holes in them for better bonding)

Glue the door in place

Follow-me Main Gear

Fuselage

Electronics Panel

This was my initial setup. Later on, I removed the plate. Since I splitted the 5.4L tank into 4.2 and 1.2L smoke, I didn't need the additional smoke tank on top of the fuel tank

This is the splitted tank. It ended up being excellent idea. it gives me about 7 minute of flight time.

Wires routed from the side of the fueslage behind the intake

I'm using the dubro UAT provided with the kit from carf. It fits perfectly underneath the fuel tank. It's fixed in place with velcro.

I had to cut access from the front

Batteries

I placed the batteries behind the main gear doors and secured them with velcro. I use the gear door to access the area. This way, I don't need to open the canopy.

I'm using 3 cell lipo 2800mah for the ecu and 2x 2cell lipo 2200mah for rx, gears and lights.

I routed the fuel fill line and smoke fill line above the wheel bay and use the main gear doors to access those.

Turbine Electronics

ECU is velcroed to the side of the fuel tank. Accecible from the gear door

Smoke and fuel pumps velcroed to the top of the tank.

Nose Gear

Follow me door

Here's a good picture of the nose gear door of the real scale plane: (you can try to make the horns look like that)

Use rigid epoxyglass board (about 1mm thick) to create the shape in the picture.

Drill two 2mm holes for the hinge and for the spring.

carve a notch in the follow me door approximately 8mm from the sides of the door to allow easier gluing of the hinge to the door.

The hinge hole should be 6mm from the bottom and 10mm from the door.

If I would build this plane again, I would make it look like the scale one.

Glue the hinge with thickened epoxy

Mark where the hinge meet the former and cut a 2-3 mm wide notch to allow the hinge to protrude into the former.
*DO NOT cut the fuselage skin (see the video at the beginning of this thread for better view of the cut.

Prepare hinges: I used 3mm plywood on each side and in the middle. The same rigid epoxy sheet I used for the horns. Cut approx. 8mm x 14mm, while the middle epoxy sheet only covers half of the surface to allow space for the horn.

Drill a 2 mm hole approx. 5mm from the bottom and 2mm from the side.

It's best to start with a bigger cube and sand until you get a perfect fit.

Cut an L from a 2mm piano string and test fit on the fuselage.

I had to carve the inside of the horn a bit more to allow free movement.

Fix the door in place ensuring 1mm space on each side and about 1.5mm space in the back.

Before final gluing, use a tiny dot of CA to fix the hinges. Remove the masking tape and test the functionality of the door.

Use epoxy to glue the hinges in place.

Updated hole for the pring. in a much better position

Two springs works best

Nose Gear Doors

Use mini servos (35mm long base) like MKS 747

I used micro servos (7.5KG) and just filled the space with more plywood and fiberglass just because I didn't have anything else at that time.

16-18mm servo arm

63mm Pushrod

I had to cut this line from the ball link to allow smooth motion. Otherwise, you can add a 1mm washer/spacer to the ball.

There should be a mechanical lock when the doors are closed.

With a 16mm servo arm you'll get it to open and close at 800 and 2200 µs.

Unfortunately, the Electron GS200 controller will only provide 1000-2000µs. So in that case, you might want to either use 18mm servo arm, or get a programmable servos (like in my case: AGFRC).

I had to trim the front horn to allow clearance for the gear.

Wings

Ailerons

Assemble the aileron servo tray
Use resin and fiberglass to strengthen the seams

Flaps

Prepare a 161mm pushrod (carbon part is 118mm)
38mm servo arm
Use a standard servo 20KG+ (I use MKS HV9930)

Flaps Up
(I had to carve 2mm of the foam)

Flaps down

I divided the wing connectors to two sets of (6 pin) MPX connectors.

Gears, Breaks, Lights (in front of the tube)
Flaps, Ailerons (after the tube)

Nav light

These Unilight NAV lights are optional. Mine looks a bit different than the full size scale jet. So use your skills to do something better than mine :).

Picture of the real plane

Follow the markings on the wing tip

Right wing: SLIM13F-040x2-GN

Left Wing: SLIM13F-040x2-RT

Sanding, filling and repainting the leading edge for a perfect scale look

Scale Cockpit

First, use velcro to fix the sides of the cockpit to the fuselage. There's no need to adjust the sides. The are nested all the way back in the fueslage

Set the wiring underneath

in the front, it nest on the gear mount former

The hood for the instrument panel is installed with a piece of 3mm plywood.

Bottom view of the instruments hood

Front, underneath view of the instrument hood

Cut the insert to allow easy installation

trim to fit

Connect the two halves at the top

Front frame installed

Added support for the canopy frame

Cut the frame for a perfect fit

Front floor. Cut sides to fit width, add plywood to hold sit. Secure with about 8 screws.

Front floor from above

Back floor. Cut sides to fit width, add plywood to hold sit. Secure with about 6-8 screws.

Back floor from above

Back instrument panel. This one is stalled with some plywood that holds it from the back and front on both side (in the black part)

Back instrument pabel underneath

Front instrument panel: Cut in front and back sides to account for seat and nose gear

Add velcro to secure to the instrument panel

Front cockpit. The pilot's stick is being held with velcro

I positioned the gray 45 degree fiberglass strap on the clear canopy 19.5CM from the front of the canopy

I used canopy glue. When dries, it becomes invisible. Then, I epoxy the black window

Scale pilot from Wilson Li of Tailored Pilots (tailored.pilots@yahoo.co.uk)

Speed Break

The speed break is optional. I started flying this plane without it, and later on since I wanted to make the plane more tail heavy, I added it.

This is the cut out (what I cut from the fuselage)

The speed break by itself

with accessories (I didn't use the regulator which is about 15g)

Use a dremel tool with a disk to cut the opening to the hinge

I use some carbon and G10 to create the hinges.

I glued the hinge with hysol. The hinge point is about 6mm before the door. The height is determined by test fitting the hinge on the fuselage

I used a 4mm and 5mm brass tube to create the anchor point for the actuator.

Set the servo tester on 1050µs

Fix it in place

I needed to slow down the channel on my remote to 1 second. Otherwise, the actuator got stuck at full position.

Centerline Tank

The centerline tank is optional. I think it looks amazing. It's very light and easy to install at the field, so I'd highly recommend it., Below is a video with my suggested installation.

Scale Details

I used 4mm aluminum tubes, 5mm brass tubes on top of them and 2mm brass tubes for the sides.
(NAV TAIL

SLIM7-020x2-WE)

Full Scale plane

Black antenna and top beacon light (Strobe FL-TOP

STRB10F-080x2-WE)

There are many ways of making a detachable antenna. Here, I'm using a mini dean connector.

Bottom beacon light
(BEACON FL-BOT

STRB10F-080x2-RT)

I glued the wing's stall fins with a thickened epoxy, then bondo, primer and painted.

Nomenclature and Miniature Detonation Cordstickers and detonation cord from Tailormadedecals

Putting the sticker is not easy due to the curveture of the canopy

Mark the center and start from the top.

Work your way down while removing the transfer paper as you position the sticker.

use a nylon film to create a barier between the two magnets and the fuselage and create a clean gluing of the magnets.

Dummy pitot tube provided with the kit

I'm using half of a mini dean connector

Here's a view of the opening of the front centerline tank. I didn't do it. but it could be an interesting concept to use it for actual fueling the plane.

Cut and fit the vents from the inside of the fuselage.

These scale details are for the back of the wheels. I didn't end up using those.

Intakes

I secured the intakes with a piece of velcro. It's very effective. Easily removed with a credit card, invisible and very strong.

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CARF-Models BAE Hawk 1:375 Build Guide